By Chris Morris • Photos by Matt Johnson
We’ve all heard that old saying, “There is no such thing as a stupid question.” I beg to differ. Over the years I have read numerous articles written about Bourbon Whiskey that include the following question, “Are all Bourbons Whiskey and are all Whiskies Bourbon?” This to me is one silly question. It stands to reason that if all Whiskies were Bourbon wouldn’t they be called Bourbon?
The better question for me is “What is Whiskey?” That would lead to “Why are there various types of Whiskey and how arethey different?” In the world of spirits (fermented liquids exposed to heat) there are seven primary types/families – Whiskey, Brandy, Rum, Vodka, Gin, Tequila, and Liqueur. Each of these has a globally accepted set of rules that defines it, these are called “standards of identity.”
The global definition of or standard of identity for Whiskey is as follows:
1. The spirit must be obtained from a fermented mash of grain.
2. It must be distilled at less than 190 proof.
3. It must be stored in an oak container.
4. It must be bottled at no less than 80 proof. (“Bourbon Basics – Straight Across America - Straight Bourbon”)
So, what sets Whiskey apart from the other spirit types? It is theonly one that by definition must be crafted from grain exclusively. Here grain is defined as one of the cereal crops that humanity eats. It is also the only spirit type that requires a maturation period of some length in an oak barrel. Think about that – not every Tequila is aged in oak, nor are white Rums, Brandies such as Grappa or Marc and so on. Only Whiskey must be exposed to oak.
Whiskey is a global or international spirit. There is no one single country where Whiskey is required to be produced as part of itsdescriptor. There are many Whiskies, however, that are identified by a geographic descriptor like “Kentucky,” “Irish,” “Canadian” or “Tennessee”. The use of a geographic identification requires that the Whiskey be a product of the specified country or region. Many of these countries have created their own specifications for the Whiskey produced within their area of governance. Theserules flow from the general four-point rule or global standard that defines “Whiskey” and is recognized in international trade agreements. There are eight major classifications of Whiskey produced around the world but as country specific nuances are added to them the number of whiskey styles available expands dramatically. In general, the marketplace revolves around five primary whiskey families – American, Canadian, Irish, Japanese, and Scotch.
A look at the rules governing the production of these whiskey families illustrates the fact that while they are all entitled to be called “Whiskey” they do have significant production differences.
Whiskey is presented in a wide range of flavor profiles. There are two distinct types or families of Whiskey flavor – Old World (Celtic) and New World (North America). In general, the Old- World family has a grain centered flavor profile while those of the New World showcase the impact oak has on flavor. Across these types and classifications, the intensity and range of flavors presented by an individual category and brands within a category will vary according to production standard requirements, flavor source differentiation and other factors.
Every Whiskey, no matter where it originates, is crafted using the same five sources of flavor: 1) grain recipe, 2) water, 3) fermentation process, 4) distillation process and 5) maturation process. These flavor sources obviously flow from the international rules that govern the production of Whiskey. Each source has a complex range of options and features within it that may differ according to Whiskey type and individual brand or distillery of origin within a particular type.(“B. Characteristics”)
By differentiating any of the Five Sources of Whiskey Flavor a distillery can individualize its product within a specific category. For example, one can make the statement that all Bourbon Whiskies are crafted like Woodford Reserve, but Woodford Reserve is not crafted like all other Bourbons. In other words, as a Bourbon Whiskey, Woodford Reserve is crafted using the same six rules that all whiskies identified as “Bourbon Whiskey” are required to follow (more on that in a following article). However, Woodford Reserve has individualized some aspect within each of the Five Sources of Flavor to customize its production and therefore flavor profile. In that regard no other Bourbon is crafted like Woodford Reserve. This can be said for many Whiskies within their specific categories.
Common production themes can be observed among certain groups of Whiskies. For example, all Single Malt Scotch Whiskies are crafted from a grain recipe containing a single grain, malted barley. All Kentucky Bourbon Whiskies are crafted from a grain recipe that must contain at a minimum 51% corn by volume. Individual distilleries in each case can differentiate their product from those of their neighbors by altering some aspect of their grain recipe. In Scotland, the amount of influence that peat smoke is allowed to exert on the malt can be altered. In Kentucky, the percentage of corn can be altered or the use of rye instead of wheat as a small flavoring grain can be used. As subtle or wide changes are made across these and the other sources of flavor, it is easy to understand how such a wide range of Whiskey flavor profiles has developed over the years.
So –while all Whiskies are similar - all Whiskies are not the same. Each Whiskey must be judged on its own merits and on those of its category. Therefore, it is not appropriate to compare Whiskies of different types and designations. Think about comparing the two games, both called “football.” While both use a ball and involve lots of running, specific player positions and more American football and soccer are different games all together.
Next time we’ll take a look at the “What and Why’s” of Bourbon.